The Vinka Lucas Archive Collection
Click here to read an essay about Vinka by Lucy Hammonds, Curator of Design Collections, Hawke's Bay Museum and Art Gallery, Napier
The Designer
Between the 1960s and the 1980s Vinka Lucas owned and operated a designer salon in Auckland named Marée de Maru and subsequently added the label Vinka Lucas After Five. During an extended period of working overseas she operated under the label Vinka Lucas Paris.
Following a move to smaller premises Webb’s has been asked to auction a collection which has been archived during the past forty years. Some gowns were designed and made for Vinka herself, others represent a selection that Vinka has chosen to retain from each label.
Every item in the sale is meticulously constructed and in immaculate order.
A collection of luxurious and glamorous evening, costume and cocktail wear in fine silks, sequins, crystals, marabou feathers and tulles; including pieces made especially for the Miss New Zealand Contests in the 60s and 70s.
Retro evening and day dresses, kaftans, jumpsuits and patio pajamas.
Vintage wedding dresses.
Cocktail hats and fascinators.
Many of the garments have been created in the spectacular and exclusive fabrics produced by the Swiss house of Jakob Schlaepfer. Schlaepfer, established in 1904, is famous for its innovative and exclusive textiles specializing in all-over embroidered silks, velvet, sequins, lasers and crystal designs. Many are limited editions with only 200 metres having been produced of each design.
International designers regularly use these fabrics in their collections including Romeo Gigli, Yves Saint Laurent and Emmanuel Ungaro. Christian Lacroix comments: ‘The secret of Jakob Schlaepfer lies in the rich talent for invention, the creative generosity and the boldness which are the style of this house”.
Webb’s believes that many of the pieces in the sale could be remodeled to create contemporary pieces out of these beautiful fabrics.
+64 9 524 6804
Lot 1
A long ballgown.
In black French ribbon lace over pink net and decorated with Swarovski crystals, frilled camisole bodice, diamanté straps and detail at dropped waistline. Vinka Couture.
$700 - 900
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Lot 2
A long ballgown.
In black fine silk Swiss embroidery with appliqué of silver leaves and scattered diamantés, over white net and silk, fitted bodice with full sleeves and skirt. Vinka Paris.
$700 - 900
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Lot 3
A short cocktail dress.
Black heavily beaded and sequined on silk chiffon and lined with black silk. Long sleeves with keyhole slits and deeply scalloped hemline and attached floating back panel. All outlined with round black crystal beads. Some beading missing under left arm. Imported sample. Xoanon. Los Angeles.
$300 - 500
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Lot 4
A short cocktail dress.
The bodice in gold mesh with applied elaborate design in gold beading and sequins,. The skirt in red silk with gold embroidery and sequins, over stiff black lace and red silk. Halter neck with low back, dropped waistline and full skirt. With matching gold mesh bolero. Vinka Paris.
$500 - 800
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Lot 5
A short cocktail dress.
Black silk chiffon with gold sequins embroidery and gold flower detail. Halter neck with deeply frilled dipping hemline and applied black flowing panel from the shoulder. Vinka Paris.
$500 - 700
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Lot 6
A short cocktail dress.
In black with silver sequins, Swarovski crystals and heavy beading at the neck. Halter neck with deep side splits in the skirt and attached full black cape. Vinka Couture.
$400 - 550
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Lot 7
A short cocktail dress.
In black silk with floating panels in black, white and grey sequins and Swarovski crystals. Ornate beading and diamanté at the neck. Applied flowing chiffon panel. Vinka Paris.
$400-550
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Lot 8
A long evening dress.
In black silk chiffon with applied silver, gold and pink delicate beading. Long sleeves and deep flared hemline. Vinka Lucas After Five.
$350 - 500
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Lot 9
A short cocktail dress.
In Cardinal red devoré French velvet. Long full sleeves and deep flared hemline.
$350 - 450
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Lot 10
A long dress for cocktails.
In silver mesh with moon shaped all-over Swiss embroidery in soft colours. Short full sleeves and draped skirt with silver mesh train and tie at the back. Vinka Paris.
$450 - 700
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Lot 11
A long ballgown.
In ivory net with all-over embroidered black net triangles, over cream taffeta and organza. Very full skirt and ruched bodice. Vinka Paris.
$550 - 700
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Lot 12
A long evening dress.
In Swiss grey silk velvet with elaborate silver, black and bronze sequins and beading. Asymmetrical shoulder line. With matching grey silk taffeta full cloak with beaded petal collar. Vinka Lucas After Five.
$700 - 900
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Lot 13
A long dance dress.
In black polka dot Swiss embroidered net with applied white silk and silver polka dots. Sleeveless with very full skirt over white net and cream satin. Vinka Paris.
$500-700
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Lot 14
A long skirt and tunic for cocktail wear.
In blue silk with gold embroidery and sequins. Asymmetrical shoulder with organza petals on the shoulder. Vinka Paris
$500 - 700
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Lot 15
A long evening dress.
Of simple, straight cut in gold, silver and shades of purple sequins. With matching long sleeved jacket.
$500 - 650
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Lot 16
A long evening dress.
In striped blue sequins and fine gold cording. Simple design with long sleeves gathered at the shoulder and tapering to the wrist.
$350 - 500
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Lot 17
Evening trousers and cape.
Harem pants and very full evening cape in black silk crepe with silver and cerise sequins. The cape is short at the front and dipping to full length at the back. With additional embroidered sashes.
$350 - 500
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Lot 18
A long evening dress.
Of simple sleeveless design in tie-dyed silk velvet. With a matching spectacular long sleeved evening coat. The sleeves and hem of the coat are trimmed with black tipped, red ostrich feathers.
$600 - 900
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Lot 19
A pair of wide-legged evening pants and tunic
Simple tunic in heavy white all-over sequined fabric. The pants are trimmed with ostrich feathers at the hem.
$300 - 500
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Lot 20
A long evening dress.
In black French embroidered meshed wool all-over sequined fabric with Swarovski crystals, gold appliqué and pearls. Simple asymmetrical shoulder style with applied long floating panel from one shoulder in matching fabric.
$500 - 900
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Lot 21
Evening trousers and cape.
Simple black slim-line trousers with a short cape, in Swiss beaded lurex. The cape edged with a full frill of black sequins.
$350 - 550
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Lot 22
A short cocktail dress.
In black satin with Oriental inspired bold silver sequined and beaded bird design. Simple sleeveless style with applied silk black chiffon panel.
$400 - 700
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Lot 23
A short theatre coat.
In gold brocade, high collar and long tapered sleeves. Fully lined with black silk.
$400 - 650
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Lot 24
A long evening skirt and matching bra-top and bolero.
In coral wool with black, gold and pink medallion design. The skirt and bra-top have heavy beaded fringing in coral, turquoise and gold beads. Vinka Paris.
$400 - 800
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